Gets stuck in neutral at stops

Synchros shot? Weird noises while shifting? Not sure what needs to be replaced?
Master Standardshifter
Posts: 10861
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:44 pm
Cars: '08 Jeep Liberty
Location: Greater Detroit Area

Re: Gets stuck in neutral at stops

Post by Rope-Pusher » Thu Sep 17, 2015 9:42 pm

suby6 wrote:Oh, I have a feeling it did sit undriven for periods with the last owner as they had 2 cars at the time and this one had storage insurance while they were selling it .. or who knows maybe longer.

I do hear a squeak noise from the front of the engine when I press the clutch. Can I pull back the boot and grease the piston or would that be a waste of time? Maybe its sticking?

It looks like this: ... 650069.jpg
Sometimes when a vehicle sits for a while, the trans inpout shaft gets rusty and then the clutch hub won't slide freely along the splines and the clutch friction disk can get stuck mashed up against the flywheel even after you push the pedal and the pressure plate backs away from the clutch disk.

I've had some success breaking the rust loose by coasting at about 30 mph, holding the clutch pedal depressed and shifting alternately from 3rd to 4th and back again. Also, did some mild clutch dump launches and some mild downshifts with clutch dumps...the aim was to get the clutch hub to load against either side of the input shaft splines.
'08 Jeep Liberty 6-Speed MT - "Last of the Mohicans"

Junior Standardshifter
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:44 pm
Cars: 09 Fusion SE

Re: Gets stuck in neutral at stops

Post by suby6 » Thu Sep 24, 2015 6:40 pm

So ended up changing the slave as well to rule that out. Must be a clutch internal problem. Tried the actions described to free up the shaft if corroded but still the same. Going to another gear first doesn't really help either.

Taking it to a local tranny shop Monday. Likely it will get a clutch replacement..

Funny thing with bleeding the clutch on this car. Everything I read said not to let the reservoir get low. It seems with this car that if the fluid goes below even the full mark when you pump the pedal with the reservoir cap off it wont bleed as it seems to draw in air from a vent that reaches the full mark. You end up just pumping out air brought in through the open reservoir which is why bleeding it was such a failure previously. Discovered if filled to the brim it would bleed well if kept above the full mark which meant topping it every couple nipple openings. Anyhow am positive all the air is out now. Also learned a good trick of using a clamp to hold the slave closed when bleeding the system.

Post Reply