I think my clutch just went

[rml605]

So you're saying basically my clutch could have had bad parts?

I had no slippage at all and after doing research, it could have maybe been a fix that didn't require a whole clutch replacement. When I pick up the car tomorrow i'll find out exactly what went wrong. It's the most reputable shop in my area and my sister's husband's family knows them and always uses them, so I don't think they would try and screw me.

[IMBoring25]

A manufacturing defect is always a possibility.

Even if it was a problem that didn't require a full replacement, I'd replace everything that's in there every time. Even replacing everything that's in there the job is still likely over half labor for most vehicles, so you want it as bulletproof as you can get it any time you have to open it up.

[rml605]

I'm unsure of the clutch history on my car but I think previous owner had some work.

It's going to feel weird I was so used to my old clutch hopefully my friction point isn't much different. Does a brand new clutch feel weird and hard to drive at first as it needs to be broken in?

[IMBoring25]

Even if the clutch removed and the clutch installed are identical there's likely to be some difference, at least until the new one wears in a little.

[Rope-Pusher]

IF you downshift at too high of a speed, the friction material can fracture due to over-revving - this occurs during synchronization, not related to engine overspeeding, since the clutch fails before it was re-engaged. (You could also do this by shifting into 1st at the top of a steep hill and coasting down with the engine at idle and the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed) until the vehicle speed was ~1.5 x engine redline in 1st)

Also, too many "rev it up and dump the clutch" starts, especially with wheel hopping, can tear apart the clutch hub rivets.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional ... -problems/

[rml605]

I'm definitely downshift happy a lot lol but never hit higher rpms than 4k after shift is done.


Got it back today. My pedal still squeaks alittle like it use to on and off nothing crazy though. Maybe just have to break it in? Friction point is pretty much same as before which is good. Shifter is also much stiffer going into gear. Is this normal? Car rides fine though

[Rope-Pusher]

I'm definitely downshift happy a lot lol but never hit higher rpms than 4k after shift is done.


Got it back today. My pedal still squeaks alittle like it use to on and off nothing crazy though. Maybe just have to break it in? Friction point is pretty much same as before which is good. Shifter is also much stiffer going into gear. Is this normal? Car rides fine though

Nice that the friction point of this clutch is same as old clutch - maybe both OEM?

So, shifting shouldn't change with a new clutch....what do you mean by "Stiffer"? Less compliance/rubberiness? Higher effort?

It is possible that there is a shift system adjustment - usually to align the 3/4 in the shifter with 3/4 in the trans (cross-car, or "Select" motion). For cars with a reverse blocker at the shifter, this may be the critical cross-car alignment, so that Reverse cannot be attained without releasing the Reverse blocker.

There are times where a slight misadjustment results in blocking of fore/aft, or "Shift" motion.

Does the shifting feel OK with the engine off and the clutch pedal depressed?

Does it "go South" with the engine idling and the clutch pedal still depressed?

Typically, if the clutch is still dragging on the flywheel and/or pressure plate, the shifting will feel worse with the engine on compared to engine off. I'm still talking static shifting - the wheels are not rolling. Once the wheels are rolling, you're into dynamic shifting and the speed of the shift, ratio change from one speed range to the next, engine rpm at the beginning of the shift, temperature of the trans fluid, and life cycle phase of the mud chiggers can affect the force required to shift into the next gear.

[rml605]

It feels just different shifting into gear. Like more resistance and with engine off it is hard to shift into gear. Not crazy but without pedal depressed there's some resistance.

[IMBoring25]

You may be hypersensitive to potential differences. Some resistance should be expected in that operation. Unless the dog teeth happen to be aligned perfectly on the gear you're trying to engage, the gears have to slightly realign themselves as they go in, and this is even more potentially resistant when the clutch is engaged, as the gears then have to turn the engine as well, possibly against the resistance of a piston that is in a compression or power stroke.

Did the mechanics discuss what specifically broke?

[rml605]

You may be hypersensitive to potential differences. Some resistance should be expected in that operation. Unless the dog teeth happen to be aligned perfectly on the gear you're trying to engage, the gears have to slightly realign themselves as they go in, and this is even more potentially resistant when the clutch is engaged, as the gears then have to turn the engine as well, possibly against the resistance of a piston that is in a compression or power stroke.

Did the mechanics discuss what specifically broke?

Just said the clutch had worn out I didn't ask what specifically went wrong I should have though.

Only thing that feels different is like I said shifting feel but also seems my pedal travels slightly more forward then just straight down.

[Rope-Pusher]

You may be hypersensitive to potential differences. Some resistance should be expected in that operation. Unless the dog teeth happen to be aligned perfectly on the gear you're trying to engage, the gears have to slightly realign themselves as they go in, and this is even more potentially resistant when the clutch is engaged, as the gears then have to turn the engine as well, possibly against the resistance of a piston that is in a compression or power stroke.

Did the mechanics discuss what specifically broke?

Just said the clutch had worn out I didn't ask what specifically went wrong I should have though.

Only thing that feels different is like I said shifting feel but also seems my pedal travels slightly more forward then just straight down.

I wouldn't think they would have done anything to change the arc of the pedal - it swings on a pivot from a bracket next to or part of your brake pedal bracket. Even if they had changed out your clutch master cylinder, they would have hung a new one on the old pedal system.

[rml605]

Why is it hard for me to shift with engine off and not pressing clutch? Normal with new clutch?

[IMBoring25]

New clutch, old clutch, no clutch...Just plain normal. See previous post. And I also second Rope's comments...There is no reason for the path the clutch pedal travels to have been affected.

[theholycow]

Why is it hard for me to shift with engine off and not pressing clutch? Normal with new clutch?

It should not be hard to shift with the engine off and your foot off of the clutch pedal, assuming the parking brake is engaged and holding the car well (or something else is doing the job, like a curb or wheel chock) and there's no tension on the drivetrain. If the drivetrain is wound up then stepping on the clutch pedal once should release the tension and allow you to shift easily without further touching the pedal.

Stop the car in neutral, set the parking brake, shut off the engine, and test again.

[Rope-Pusher]

IF you try static shifting w/o pushing in the clutch pedal, the input shaft isn't free to rotate. Usually, as you shift into a gear with the clutch pedal depressed, the input shaft rotates a bit and the gear aligns itself with the synchro sleeve. If you shift to Neutral and then back into that gear, it should already be aligned and go into gear a little easier the 2nd time. If you shift out of one gear and past Neutral into another gear, you may rotate the input shaft to align with that next gear and it might not be as smooth going back into the gear you originally lined up with. If you just go back to Neutral and then re-engage the previous gear, it should feel fairly smooth.