ZOMG need something that tows

[StrangeWill]

Well looking to move across the US, and was looking at the price to rent a truck + trailer + trade in for my car, and getting something that tows is starting to look like a good idea (and just rent a trailer for a fraction of the price).

Either way we want to get something that tows even after we move so... may be good to do it now.

I've been looking at the Suburu Outbacks, finding a manual is tough... tows 3,000 which is good.

Must be stick of course... open for suggestions, wanting to stay away from trucks and SUVs (hence why I'm looking at Suburus), this will be my new car...


Suggest a van and die.

Edit:
I take it back... MAY get a Ranger.

Edit2:
Actually 99% certain I'm getting a Ranger unless I find something better/cheaper/more gas friendly.

[keravnosdrakien]

*ahem*

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/20/beho ... t-of-snow/

It's a subie :'D

[watkins]

There are a ton of manual Outbacks around. Nobody wants to sell them though

[beowulf80]

Yeah, that's too bad too. I'd love to replace my winter beater Cavalier with an older Outback or WRX wagon. Then it would be manual trans year-round!

[theholycow]

I've been looking at the Suburu Outbacks {...} wanting to stay away from trucks and SUVs (hence why I'm looking at Suburus)

I found out the hard way that it is not acceptable on this forum to say that an Outback is not an SUV.

Just how much do you need to tow?

How much towing experience do you have?

What kind of Ranger are you considering?

[StrangeWill]

I've been looking at the Suburu Outbacks {...} wanting to stay away from trucks and SUVs (hence why I'm looking at Suburus)

I found out the hard way that it is not acceptable on this forum to say that an Outback is not an SUV.

I guess technically it is but I meant the whole "lumbering beast" type of SUV...

Just how much do you need to tow?

1500-2000lbs max.

How much towing experience do you have?

0

What kind of Ranger are you considering?

Someone is selling one with 130k miles for $3950 with a 4.0L V6 2001 XLT (I know this can tow like 5000lbs, a big more than I need...), minus it's abysmal mileage (22 with a tailwind and downhill), I'm liking it a lot. Ex-work truck so it isn't in perfect condition (typical construction worker dents in the bed area), but it's a truck so I figure it adds character (they're minor, not like parts missing).

I've heard nothing but good things about Rangers for the most part, friend told me to get a Dodge Dakota being as Rangers have terrible mileage... then again I'm moving out east were gas is cheaper and work is closer... so I'm not as worried about it.



Also, the one I'm looking at doesn't have a tow kit, how much can I expect to tow with it? (I'm assuming approx 1200lbs being as without a tow kit I don't get trailer brakes...).

How much is it for an after market tow kit after everything is said and done (I have about 5200 to budget for such an endeavor, that includes renting a trailer for 2100 miles... though to be honest I could go above this being as we will be using the vehicle for a bit more while there... but I"m aiming for 5200 being as that was the number that made me consider selling my car and getting a truck).

[comingbackdown]

I've been looking at the Suburu Outbacks {...} wanting to stay away from trucks and SUVs (hence why I'm looking at Suburus)

I found out the hard way that it is not acceptable on this forum to say that an Outback is not an SUV.

I guess technically it is but I meant the whole "lumbering beast" type of SUV...

Just how much do you need to tow?

1500-2000lbs max.

How much towing experience do you have?

0

What kind of Ranger are you considering?

Someone is selling one with 130k miles for $3950 with a 4.0L V6 2001 XLT (I know this can tow like 5000lbs, a big more than I need...), minus it's abysmal mileage (22 with a tailwind and downhill), I'm liking it a lot. Ex-work truck so it isn't in perfect condition (typical construction worker dents in the bed area), but it's a truck so I figure it adds character (they're minor, not like parts missing).

I've heard nothing but good things about Rangers for the most part, friend told me to get a Dodge Dakota being as Rangers have terrible mileage... then again I'm moving out east were gas is cheaper and work is closer... so I'm not as worried about it.

I can vouch for the Dakota as well as the Ranger, but be warned. They both have a specific set of common issues.
I can also tell you that both of those sets are a major bitch. Not so sure about newer generations, but be VERY careful looking at a Ranger. As John and I learned the hard way, they have a tendency of rusting to pieces. Before you buy, inspect every inch, and get a really good look at the frame. 1st and 2nd gen Dakotas both have the same basic set of issues, most of which I've already encountered myself. Only one or two of them are any real issue, and that's if you're a tard when it comes to electrical issues.

Sad thing is, The S-10, the Sonoma, the Dakota, the Ranger, and the Mazda B Series all have the same problem with rust.
Lucky for John and I, we're about to start in on repairing it before it gets any worse.

[StrangeWill]

I can vouch for the Dakota as well as the Ranger, but be warned. They both have a specific set of common issues.
I can also tell you that both of those sets are a major bitch. Not so sure about newer generations, but be VERY careful looking at a Ranger. As John and I learned the hard way, they have a tendency of rusting to pieces. Before you buy, inspect every inch, and get a really good look at the frame. 1st and 2nd gen Dakotas both have the same basic set of issues, most of which I've already encountered myself. Only one or two of them are any real issue, and that's if you're a tard when it comes to electrical issues.

Sad thing is, The S-10, the Sonoma, the Dakota, the Ranger, and the Mazda B Series all have the same problem with rust.
Lucky for John and I, we're about to start in on repairing it before it gets any worse.

I'm looking at 4th generation, so I'm clear of the rust issues, correct?

I'm still going to look over it well though, thanks for the tip.

[theholycow]

On rust: It's easy to tell...just inspect the undercarriage. I don't think you have to worry about a 2001 Ford. If we were talking about a 1991 Toyota, that'd be a whole other story.

On Rangers: Your assessment is correct. I'm not sure a Dakota would get better mileage, though; they are larger and heavier and don't have any better fuel economy technology in them.

On towing:
Don't depend on being able to tow the maximum rating of any vehicle safely, especially with zero experience and a long trip.

There's a lot to tow ratings and most vehicles are not really qualified for their rating. The maximum rating is calculated as the GCWR - curb weight. In reality, here's a few of the important limits:

1. GCWR: Your vehicle will weigh more than curb weight, so max tow rating is supposed to be reduced by that amount, if you read the fine print in the tow rating page of the manual.

2. Tongue weight

3. Axle weight: You can only properly reach GCWR by maxing out both axles just right.

4. Special equipment required (in the fine print): Electric brakes and a brake controller, weight-distributing hitch, etc, etc...

5. Trailer length vs. tow vehicle length/width.

Why the lawyers aren't all over this in every crash that happens while towing, I just don't get...suing is the American way!

Now, that doesn't mean you'll crash and burn the second you exceed your GCWR, but it does affect your risk and it also affects your liability (and whether your insurance company covers your claim or not) if everything goes bad.

It's best to leave yourself plenty of margin between the claimed tow rating and what you'll actually tow.

[StrangeWill]

Ok, the only thing I'm looking at that is bad right now is that this truck doesn't come with a factory tow package... opinions/costs on after market tow packages?


Edit:
Sorry correct, 3.0L.

[theholycow]

There's no such thing as an aftermarket tow package. You just have to add parts as necessary.

Factory tow packages include such things as:
- increased cooling capacity
- larger automatic transmission coolers (doesn't matter to us!)
- higher-rated alternator
- heavier springs
- other suspension or frame modifications
- different tires
- Hitch receiver
- Wiring for trailer lights and brakes (but until some recent models they did not include the brake controller, just the wiring)

Hitch receivers are pretty much all the same, as far as I can tell. I'd consider getting an OEM from craigslist or a junkyard as long as you can verify that it's in strong condition.

[StrangeWill]

There's no such thing as an aftermarket tow package. You just have to add parts as necessary.

Factory tow packages include such things as:
- increased cooling capacity
- larger automatic transmission coolers (doesn't matter to us!)
- higher-rated alternator
- heavier springs
- other suspension or frame modifications
- different tires
- Hitch receiver
- Wiring for trailer lights and brakes (but until some recent models they did not include the brake controller, just the wiring)

Hitch receivers are pretty much all the same, as far as I can tell. I'd consider getting an OEM from craigslist or a junkyard as long as you can verify that it's in strong condition.

So is it impractical to think I can get this thing tow ready for less than another $1000? It seems like a lot, then again this thing wont tow much to begin with... As I understand it the wiring is already there, I wont however be able to install the hitch receiver myself, so probably have to find a local company to do that...



Basically a yes/no on if I'm being stupid attempting this would be nice.

[theholycow]

It's not stupid to buy a vehicle sans tow package and tow with it. The truck may even come with a bumper rated to tow the weight you plan to tow, and AFAIK individual components are never rated for more than they can reasonably handle. In that case all you'd need is a hitch ball ($6) and the wiring ($100, maybe?).

[comingbackdown]

It's not stupid to buy a vehicle sans tow package and tow with it. The truck may even come with a bumper rated to tow the weight you plan to tow, and AFAIK individual components are never rated for more than they can reasonably handle. In that case all you'd need is a hitch ball ($6) and the wiring ($100, maybe?).

Correct. My dad managed to tow our camper with an early '90s Olds Cutlass.

[StrangeWill]

May be picking it up today/this week.

When I got in it the seller said:
"That car 5 speed"
"Yep"
"This wont drive like that"
"I know, I'm ready to embarrass myself... -stall-"

Only once though, got to get use to the heavier clutch and gearbox.