Misc Thread VI: Return of the Threadi

[tankinbeans]

Wannabe, if your housemate has a current model Focus he definitely has TPS. Not sure about the older ones. He's probably had his TPS sensors calibrated enough times that it no longer matters.

[IMBoring25]

10 years of employment history is the SF-86 look-back (for actual cleared positions), not the SF-85 look-back (for positions that generally deal in sensitive but unclassified data). As I understand it they're basically looking for how you were supporting yourself, looking for signs you may have unreported things in your past that would make you vulnerable to blackmail or related tactics.

Drug screening under direct observation is extremely odd. I've never heard of it if there hadn't been previous signs of irregularities.

[Rope-Pusher]

10 years of employment history is the SF-86 look-back (for actual cleared positions), not the SF-85 look-back (for positions that generally deal in sensitive but unclassified data). As I understand it they're basically looking for how you were supporting yourself, looking for signs you may have unreported things in your past that would make you vulnerable to blackmail or related tactics.

Drug screening under direct observation is extremely odd. I've never heard of it if there hadn't been previous signs of irregularities.

Can you say "Voyeur? I thought you could!

Talking with the security officer at the tank command, with the Cold War at its peak, I heard that most basically, they are looking to see if you are who you say you are. It was less important from the standpoint of potential job performance that you didn't really have that job or educational experience you claimed on your resume than that there might be some ulterior motive beyond mere employment to your seeking a position in the DoD dealing with confidential, secret, or even top secret information.

Not being qualified or capable of performing the duties of the position would become evident with time.


Meeting Natasha for tea once a month, maybe not.

[Teamwork]

A lot of things to group up and touch on:

As a hiring manager, I can tell you that experience and even schooling is something we didn't really prioritize.

And I honestly wish it was something that wasn't prioritized period... should they account for something? Sure- but not nearly the hefty pendulum swing that it seems to have. I had to ride a few mathematical assessments in some of my applications within the last few weeks... nothing that I couldn't muster up but I felt like I was dusting cob webs out of my cranium (GRE quantitative math caliber/statistics/CPA practice exam math). I'm not saying this line of work is for everyone, nor does everyone apply for it... but most of my friends and family would not of been able to survive these assessments with a barely passing grade. How much these questions actually apply to the position at hand is most likely really negligible but I'm fairly certain that it's assessing subliminal motives and level headed-ness more then anything else. Just because I only have 3-4 years experience in this field, doesn't mean I can't do the work and at less efficiency as a 45 year old whose been doing it for over a decade. I'd bet on myself that I could do it with better results and more efficiency even.

I applied to maybe 20-30 companies, out of which I scored 5 interviews; those interviews resulted in 3 offers. That ratio is pretty good and it's not because of me, it's because of the market, which is typically pretty good in my industry and sees little fluctuation as a whole.

That ratio is what I'm hopeful for. I have 4-5 serious leads right now where I've made it to round 2 and when it's all said and done if I could even get 2 or 3 offers I'd be mostly satisfied. The process has been tedious and draining for me though. Not trying to sound like a cry baby about it and I know what I signed up for but it feels like I'm working an "extra job" going through the pleasantries and paper work.
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6 years is nothing. That's even less than the 8 years that the tire industry has convinced the US government that tires should exist before they have to be discarded and new ones bought regardless of any actual aging that may have happened.

I can't know for sure until I do it but with the all-seasons I usually get 3 years and 30k roughly out of them before they are deemed replaced. Could I drive on them longer? Most likely, but I rather just replace them. I probably do about 12-14k a year and my number is actually a bit low right now and it's only because I've been "learning" how to drive manual with this car so in the beginning I wasn't driving as much and sharing time.

Yes, summer performance tires and winter tires wear more and last less than all-season tires.

All-season tires are "we gave up, here's a compromise" tires made of a hard compound intended to increase treadwear life.

Summer performance tires are made of a soft compound that wears quickly but grabs better. They have shallow tread for better stability; deep tread blocks can squirm when loaded laterally.

Winter tires are made of a soft compound that wears quickly but grabs better (sound familiar?). They have deep tread to really dig in to snow even after they've had some wear, and you're expected to discard them when they've worn down to a level similar to a new summer performance tire.

I don't have too much experience in terms of specialized tires for summer performance and winter performance but my consensus and research on the internet is that no one really likes "all season tires". The OEM tires of my last two cars from the factory, including the Bridgestone's on my GTI currently were crappy. I didn't realize how crappy they were on my KIA (Goodyear Eagle LS) until I switched them out and realized that my car could actually ride compliant, grip, and provide feel. The biggest problem with my GTI tires currently is they don't provide feel, literally have dry traction issues on soft launches if on certain conditions or sand (forget about wet weather), and they give up in turns way before my psyche will or the car chassis will.

We had a mild winter this year on the island but it doesn't mean it's going to be like that next year or the year after. I'm not saying I'd take my GTI out in a blizzard, with feet of snow piled up around me, but I need the car to also be competent and usable when there's only 2-3 inches of snow on the ground.

My biggest concerns of all of this is not wasting money ultimately or feeling like I have even when I go through with the original stated plan. I'm not trying to do crazy things or race my car in any sort of contest but I also want to feel like I have confidence on the 4 patches that hug the ground and offer the best possible solutions for whatever seasons bring at me. I don't know if anyone could sell me on the idea of "all-seasons" being the best of both worlds but I'd surely give it a listen since it would seem to save me a lot of money, time, and potential headaches in the future- so it seems.

Drug screening under direct observation is extremely odd. I've never heard of it if there hadn't been previous signs of irregularities.

I have nothing to hide lol and no track record. My first drug test was literally when I was 17-18 years old applying for a part time associate position at Kohl's. I'll never forget it because I thought the hoops I had to jump through which included this drug test was ridiculous for what I was doing. Can't even remember what I started at then but it was most likely $7.75/HR @ 15-20 hours a week. Best part of that job was it paid every week... so for a 18 year old, not much budgeting required.

[Jastreb]

And I honestly wish it was something that wasn't prioritized period... should they account for something? Sure- but not nearly the hefty pendulum swing that it seems to have. I had to ride a few mathematical assessments in some of my applications within the last few weeks... nothing that I couldn't muster up but I felt like I was dusting cob webs out of my cranium (GRE quantitative math caliber/statistics/CPA practice exam math).

As an engineer, I find math and physics assessments on job applications/interviews obnoxious and borderline insulting. To me it says the company does not respect my degree nor my experience.

I don't have too much experience in terms of specialized tires for summer performance and winter performance but my consensus and research on the internet is that no one really likes "all season tires".

My biggest concerns of all of this is not wasting money ultimately or feeling like I have even when I go through with the original stated plan. I'm not trying to do crazy things or race my car in any sort of contest but I also want to feel like I have confidence on the 4 patches that hug the ground and offer the best possible solutions for whatever seasons bring at me. I don't know if anyone could sell me on the idea of "all-seasons" being the best of both worlds but I'd surely give it a listen since it would seem to save me a lot of money, time, and potential headaches in the future- so it seems.

People that don't care about performance and don't want to be bothered switching wheels twice a year like all-seasons. People that live somewhere where they might get some sleet twice a year - all seasons make more sense for them. But a proper set of winter tires is night and day in the snow. You wouldn't be wasting your money at all, you'd be investing in your safety and your car's performance.

[theholycow]

The biggest problem with my GTI tires currently is they don't provide feel, literally have dry traction issues on soft launches if on certain conditions or sand (forget about wet weather)

I'm not sure I understand the sand thing. I assume you're talking about leftover winter sand on the pavement. No tire can cut through that or make that sand grip the pavement. I suppose maybe a heavily siped winter tire might absorb the sand and reach pavement before you feel any slippage, but otherwise you'll feel it slip until it sweeps the sand away. A different car might do better thanks to a better differential and/or better weight distribution and/or different shape/size/pressure tires and/or milder throttle tip-in response, not to mention the likely change in how launching works between automatic and you driving manual...but I don't expect you're going to find much satisfaction addressing that complaint by choosing different tires.

My biggest concerns of all of this is not wasting money ultimately or feeling like I have

It's definitely not a waste. Your only additional cost is a set of wheels, which can be plain black steelies for winter. The tires aren't an additional cost because every mile you put on a winter tire is a mile you don't put on your other set, so as long as you use up both sets you aren't buying twice as many tires -- except for that part about the increased treadwear of the softer compound, but you want that for upgraded traction anyway.

If your GTI has the same lug pattern/hub/offset as my Rabbit did then it's pretty much the most common pattern out there these days. Start watching Craigslist now and you can probably score a set of steelies for $50 or some nicer rimjobs for $100 before winter. If 15's are an option then replace the "probably" with "definitely"...in that case, "probably" applies if we're talking about wheels WITH good winter tires already on them.

On top of all that, studs may be an option too. A lot of folks don't like studded tires (and they're illegal all year in some places, but I bet they're allowed from November to April where you are), but I do.

I don't know if anyone could sell me on the idea of "all-seasons" being the best of both worlds but I'd surely give it a listen since it would seem to save me a lot of money, time, and potential headaches in the future- so it seems.

They're not the best of both worlds. They're an acceptable compromise in a general purpose tire optimized for long treadwear, NVH, fuel economy, predictability, and the type of margin for error that is appropriate for the masses (lots of audible warning and sloppy handling before they let go, instead of grabbing until they suddenly give up). They're fine and when I don't have worn winter tires (with plenty of summer-depth tread) I drive on all-seasons in the summer since they're so readily available and cost-effective. Yup, they're fine...but if you want, you can do better than fine.

That's not to say that the car can't have its own limits where better tires are unlikely to help. A long long time ago I had a Grand Am with 205/55-16's. I bought high-rated performance tires for it and couldn't squeeze a single extra mph out of them on my favorite exit ramp. I tried a different set, also with great reviews, again no satisfaction. I gave up on that and bought ultra-long-treadwear tires figuring I might as well go for that extreme instead and gave up a little grab until I realized that those tires needed more pressure...and with more pressure, there was that same exact limit. I suspect that under lateral load there was too much camber deflection in the suspension due to rubber bushings or something, and no tire's tread was staying on the ground, so a stickier tire was unable to improve that car's handling.

[Teamwork]

As an engineer, I find math and physics assessments on job applications/interviews obnoxious and borderline insulting. To me it says the company does not respect my degree nor my experience.

To play devils advocate I can understand it to a relative degree. Again, I think there's subliminal motives being tested other than the obvious for a lot of the assessments. The thing is not all degrees are created equal and they are probably trying to weed out the pretenders. My business management degree in a small private school isn't going to be viewed the same as a business degree from Wharton University of Pennsylvania (where my dad graduated from).

I'm not sure I understand the sand thing. I assume you're talking about leftover winter sand on the pavement. No tire can cut through that or make that sand grip the pavement. I suppose maybe a heavily siped winter tire might absorb the sand and reach pavement before you feel any slippage, but otherwise you'll feel it slip until it sweeps the sand away. A different car might do better thanks to a better differential and/or better weight distribution and/or different shape/size/pressure tires and/or milder throttle tip-in response, not to mention the likely change in how launching works between automatic and you driving manual...but I don't expect you're going to find much satisfaction addressing that complaint by choosing different tires.

The sand part is probably a stretch exaggeration but what isn't an exaggeration is these stock tires give up easy. I don't do aggressive launches ever.. matter a fact I don't have the confidence or skill to do so, so it's not a blind assumption. I typically get beaten off the line by EVERYONE unless their towing a trailer or boat. Still there's plenty of times where the tires don't hook up on 1st gear "launches"... A lot of tire and theatrics when I take a turn at a moderate speed. Nothing over the top by any means though... No Ken Block like stuff.

People that don't care about performance and don't want to be bothered switching wheels twice a year like all-seasons. People that live somewhere where they might get some sleet twice a year - all seasons make more sense for them. But a proper set of winter tires is night and day in the snow. You wouldn't be wasting your money at all, you'd be investing in your safety and your car's performance.

It's definitely not a waste.

I'm seeing the numbers up front but I'm not feeling the gains first hand (so it doesn't feel fair at this point but I get it). So I can understand this and it's definitely something that I think would be worth while with some careful planning as advised. It probably isn't doing me any favors that the one guy who I currently drive a lot with who has summer tires from Dunlop has a TON of road noise. It's just disgustingly loud on cruises with the windows shut even and nearly unbearable with the windows open.

I think the best all-season tires I've ever experienced is actually currently on my fathers Toyota Matrix. He did a ton of research on them and wanted a good blend but he's by no means an "enthusiast" or wants something sporty- just a nice blend of comfort and grip. The tires on his car are literally the best part of the job... the tires won't give up before the car gives up which is pretty crazy. That has to be proof how much tires have a difference on how a car feels though for sure.

If your GTI has the same lug pattern/hub/offset as my Rabbit did then it's pretty much the most common pattern out there these days.

225/40-18 18x8 O.E. Diameter! Can't down size for winter tires because the caliper won't clear so 18's it is...

[potownrob]

I don't have too much experience in terms of specialized tires for summer performance and winter performance but my consensus and research on the internet is that no one really likes "all season tires".

My biggest concerns of all of this is not wasting money ultimately or feeling like I have even when I go through with the original stated plan. I'm not trying to do crazy things or race my car in any sort of contest but I also want to feel like I have confidence on the 4 patches that hug the ground and offer the best possible solutions for whatever seasons bring at me. I don't know if anyone could sell me on the idea of "all-seasons" being the best of both worlds but I'd surely give it a listen since it would seem to save me a lot of money, time, and potential headaches in the future- so it seems.

People that don't care about performance and don't want to be bothered switching wheels twice a year like all-seasons. People that live somewhere where they might get some sleet twice a year - all seasons make more sense for them. But a proper set of winter tires is night and day in the snow. You wouldn't be wasting your money at all, you'd be investing in your safety and your car's performance.

+1 not to mention (and this is a potentially big one), you will be saving wear on your all-season or summer tires (and rims) by running winter tires in the colder months. in my case, i would probably have to buy new tires prior to turning in the car at lease end, if i only ran the crappy all-seasons and didn't have winter tires. now, the crappy all-seasons (bridgestones) that came on the beautiful stock wheels will be in much better shape after 3 years since they will have spent half that time in my garage. so, a ~$700 investment in winter wheels and tires saves me from having to pay ~$4-500 to replace tires before turning in the car. In your case, your crappy all-seasons will last longer, and you'll find yourself commenting how ironic it is that your winter tires are quieter and handle better than your all-seasons, even in dry weather.

[theholycow]

It probably isn't doing me any favors that the one guy who I currently drive a lot with who has summer tires from Dunlop has a TON of road noise. It's just disgustingly loud on cruises with the windows shut even and nearly unbearable with the windows open.

NVH from high performance summer tires, winter tires, and studded winter tires is likely (but not sure) to be higher than all-seasons. Tires are the ultimate exercise in see-saw compromises...you increase one characteristic and decrease the other, every time (except it's not merely two characteristics in question). If you've ever played classic RPGs where you create a character by allocating a quantity of skill points to each of a dozen skills, it's exactly like that.

Here are some of the characteristics to which a tire's "skill points" (as it were) could be allocated...I'm sure there are plenty more:
- Cost
- Dry pavement traction
- Wet pavement traction
- Hydroplaning resistance
- Rolling resistance (for fuel economy)
- Higher temperature traction
- Lower temperature traction
- Treadwear
- Dry rot / UV resistance
- Noise (which could probably be divided into a number of more specific types)
- Mud traction
- Deep sand traction
- Soft soil traction
- Hardpack soil traction
- Virgin powder snow traction
- Virgin wet snow traction
- Hardpack snow traction
- Washboard ice traction
- Mirror ice traction
- Tread appearance (which could be optimized for enticing certain types of buyers or for showing off)
- Puncture resistance
- Temperature resistance
- Pothole survival
- Sidewall robustness (curbing)
- Maximum speed
- Other stuff I've failed to list
- A million regulatory requirements that effectively limit all of the above
- ...and who knows how many manufacturing, environmental, and whatever other concerns.

They adjust these compromises with changes to compound, tread pattern, siping, tread depth, maybe belt design/material, and probably other variables I've forgotten/never knew.

[Teamwork]

I'm sure my friend took whatever was provided to him at a reasonable (cheap) cost for the summer tires but they are literally only 2 years old and they are shockingly loud. They are easily the loudest tires in terms of road "slap"/noise I've ever heard on any car, truck, or commercial vehicle. It drones so bad and literally competes with his exhaust which is after market and quite loud also. Like I said I don't have experience really in this category but I would say that there might be something wrong with how they "wore" or they could be defective. Sounds like War of the Worlds when he comes down the block...

The RPG analogy fits perfect for me- thanks. I'm really not so concerned about cost for tires- I don't believe this is an area that should be cheaped out on. When I say I'm concerned about the numbers in previous posts it doesn't have to do with budgeting for tires in general but more or less EVERYTHING combined (extra sets, rims, installation costs, TPS sensors + calibrations). I don't really have a problem dropping $1500 on a project like this but I don't want to drop that much for "marginal results" either with added headaches. The whole point of getting summer performance tires would lead to the performance aspect of grip, feel, and handling. To get the most out of this if the temperature range could thresh hold to 50-100 degrees F then I don't foresee an issue of being able to run these from March to November (so 8 months out of the year roughly). Do we have inconsistencies in weather around here? Sure like everyone else but it seems to run like clockwork in the fall... weather doesn't start dipping until about November and the thought of snow really isn't an option until about Thanksgiving-ish. It was so warm in NY this year we had Christmas outdoors and BBQ'ed... When I was looking at the Subaru WRX and Focus ST there was no option factory or dealership for me to replace the "performance summer tires". I would've been forced to do this already if i went with those options.

I don't curb my car frequently but some sort of durability in terms of crap road (holes, uneven surfaces, washboard) would definitely be important to a degree for me. Won't survive otherwise. I don't know anyone in NY who wouldn't value this at least a tad. I know people are probably like "just watch out.. you can avoid them"

(this photo is actually taken on a local road that's not too far from where I live)

[theholycow]

I know what you mean about roads. It's similar in RI/MA/CT. Here's a piece of road after it has been thoroughly patched...


Don't forget that your $1500 investment isn't all a loss if you decide that summer tires don't satisfy the way you had hoped. You still get the winter tire advantages, and you still get a second set of tires to wear. The wheels also have value when you're done with them; you can sell them and recoup some of their cost (or most of the cost, if you bought them used, which should be easy since according to Tirerack they are indeed the ultra-common 5x112 bolt pattern that I previously mentioned). I bet the total amount of money at stake is $100-500 (mounting, TPMS, and reduced treadlife compared to all-season tires, though it doesn't sound like you get a ton of life from those anyway), unless you decide immediately that it was a waste and sell two sets of like-new tires on Craigslist.

IMO, a second set of wheels+tires is a reduction of headaches, not an addition. Just don't make rocket science out of storing them. Drop them wherever is convenient and sufficiently secure, and cover them if necessary. Also, it can be really handy to have some extra wheels and tires if you should have a really bad week and blow two on potholes before you can get them replaced, or you're having a financially bad year and one set of tires has worn bald.

I really can't speak enough to how well the whole multiple sets of tires scheme has worked out for me. It turned an expensive headache into a stress-free and low-cost (the way I do it, though there won't be any cost advantage for you unless two sets means being able to spend longer shopping for tires next time) thing.

[wannabe]

96 ford ranger, clutch pedal fell off

wtf

[tankinbeans]

Today in stupid, dimwits driving $2.1 million worth of hardware (including Lambos, Ferraris, Maseratis, and Vettes) were pulled over doing 110mph during rush hour. Nards

[Jastreb]

96 ford ranger, clutch pedal fell off

wtf

Some cars have weak/poorly designed clutch pedal brackets that can develop a crack and eventually break. The gen 1 RX-8s suffer from this.

[theholycow]

Not that Ranger I'm sure, but some late model cars have plastic pedal arms for the clutch.