The Neverending Probelem UPDATED: drag racing stuff from wed

[wannabe]

i think he's happy w/ the probelem just the way it is...

[Bawked]

roman, build it hard for boost!

[hockeystyx16]

alright, update time. i dont do none of that Phil stuff with updating on the first page, i dont know whats new and whats old. so heres the update. the block is torn down. i needed a 10mm 12 point socket for my rod bolts and my bottom girdle bolts, so i went to sears and stole a 9 piece 12pt socket set for 6 dollars. w00t for sales

another bottom end pic to refresh your memory


pistons and rods out. all straight, no spun bearings but they are pretty wore out


bottom end girdle held on with a metric ton of bolts that all had to be labeled and put in ziplocs so i know where they go


my crank. looks like its in good shape, no spun bearings. some polishing will clean it right up. this thing is heavy forged steel, no wimpy cast crap here. my friends ford 3.8 crank is lighter and its almost twice as long and twice as big around


empty block on the stand


at this point i pulled the handle off the stand, pulled the block off the stand and unbolted the backing plate off the block. this block is ridiculously light, like i said, its barely heavier than the crank. i wouldnt think it weighs more than 60lb. my trans weighs 80ish and it feels like picking up a house compared to the block



and on this note, the free part of this very long to be project is over. from now on i gotta spend money on it

[94Corolla5Speed]

^Cocking ballsack those connecting rods are thin; maybe I'm just used to seeing performance rods, but know I know why the KL series sucks the wang in terms of reliability.

[Johnf514]

Lovin' the descriptions and pictures. Great progress!

[Nychold]

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/index.html Easy (if expensive) fix.

[noob5,000,000]

What the hell is all that crap?

Good work on the tear down.

[hockeystyx16]

lol i bet theres a whole lot of performance rods for corollas

this is what stock KL rods like to do


Jeremy, i dont want to call those rods a fail but they are fail. they cost more than 500 for a set of 6, where i could get a set of 8 ford 347 rods, which are 5.4" on center, just what i need. id have to have a machine shop rebush the big end from .912" to .787 inches for KL pins and open the big end .001". i guarantee that would be way cheaper than those rods. that setup would be stronger than the block could handle

i could get a set of millenia S rods, they are from the supercharged millenia, big end is KL size, and wiseco makes pistons for mill S rods in a KL. that setup would be good to 400 horse. obviously this would be way cheaper than the 347 rods because all id have to do is get the big end reconditioned (dirt cheap at any machine shop) and put it together.

im going for 10psi on a eaton m62 supercharger off a slk230 because its a clutched setup, and the blower doesnt have the long nose, and i can fit it in the AC spot without having to custom make the front header. that should give me about 300 horsepowerz and that will be plenty in a 2800lb car (which will go on further diet), while keeping transmission gut spillage reasonable.

[Nychold]

Yeah, I figured there'd be cheaper options, but for a 20 second Google, it's not bad to get the point across.

[JackBauer]

OH snap, that little Econobox has a 4 bolt main? saweet

[hockeystyx16]

OH snap, that little Econobox has a 4 bolt main? saweet

yup it sure does

[hockeystyx16]

more progress and more pikchas

i was bored so i decided to go pull my heads apart. to do that i was gonna use a big C clamp and a O2 sensor socket. i looked all over for the socket and couldnt find it, so i made one out of a 13/16 socket. if you dont know how an overhead cam secures the valvespring to the valve, thats unfortunate and howstuffworks was made for people like yourself.

assembled head with crappy looking valves


the socket i made with a grinder. youll see what the cutout is for


i started out with a board on the valve side but that didnt work, so i went straight to clamp on valve and that worked great.


other side of the clamp goes on the socket, which itself goes onto the retainer. you tighten the clamp to compress the valvespring, that takes pressure off the valve keepers which then pull out with a magnet puller


1 valve down, 23 to go. left to right: valve, valve bottom plate, valvespring, retainer, 2 keepers


24 valves and 24 ziploc bags later, heads are disassembled. ill pull out the valve seals when i feel like it, wasnt today

[SonyAD]

Excellent thread, very educational.

Is that blowby scoring on the side of the piston crowns?

More pix!

[noob5,000,000]

Nifty engineering on the valve spring remover. Keep up the good work.

[hockeystyx16]

un tis un tis un tis facebang new exhaust.

got tired of the stockers rattling, it was embarrasing having to hold idle at 1500ish otherwise it rattled loud. it leaked, sounded like a boost leak i guess, but either way it leaked where it shouldn have, it was stock 1 7/8 crushbent exhaust and i bought a box of 2" mandrel bends for my downpipe and used 2 pipes out of a box of like 8. free mandrel bent exhaust is FTW

basically i did a usual custom catback job, cut pipes, fit them on the car, tack weld them on the car, take them off when your happy and finish weld them. i dont have any pictures of me tacking them together, that was full of weld sparks in my face, full of no mask welding and cussing from getting burned

heres the tacked together pipes with the leftovers of the stock crush bent garbage


finish welded and cleaned up


and a coat of silver header paint just because i can


installed on the car


another view. shiny pipes


havent drove it yet, but im about to go drive to the gas station to see what it sounds like. looks it has nothing to rattle on, so thats good. thats the real reason for this whole project, and i spent a grand total of absolutely no money on it. w00t for that