Ewilon1988 wrote:So did a bit of practice Rev Matching on my way to work just now and let's just say that that was a fun experience. I over revved 6th to 5th. 5th to 4th wasn't too terrible(music was too loud so couldn't hear). And turning into my work I braked from 4th gear down to about 25 miles per hour and downshifted to 2nd and it didn't seem to be too far off. Honestly I know it's going to take practice, but blipping feels unnatural lol. My brother says he feathers his when he rev matches(2013 370z), but I wasn't sure if that's good or not to do
How much rev-matching could you need to do from 6th to 5th, or even 5th to 4th?
On sequential downshifts I don't always rev-match. They tend to be pretty close already anyway. I rev-match more dependably for block shifts (where one or more gears are skipped; so, for example, 5th to 2nd).
Ewilon1988 wrote:Oh great, sounds like it's either get it perfect or risk ruining clutch and or other parts.
Nah, he was describing the nature of the wear (or damage), not the severity or risk level.
Ewilon1988 wrote:I figured being off by a few hundred couldn't be that terrible for it. I'm just nervous about myself taking awhile to get used to it and overshooting by a lot for awhile.
A few hundred is fine. Closer is better. Plenty of people never learn about rev-matching and drive their whole lives without replacing a clutch.
Ewilon1988 wrote:That's good to hear. I'm gonna keep practicing. Do you guys do a quick jab of the throttle or just apply some pressure?
I find steady throttle to be more graceful, but my 2008 VW's rev hang/throttle lag got me in the habit of a quick jab and I haven't been able to lose that habit even though it's been 100,000 miles (and almost 5 years) since I've driven that car.
potownrob wrote:the reasoning for this is you don't want to hold the gas down while engaging the clutch in gear, in case you got the revs wrong. if you hold the gas down, the clutch won't be able to pull the engine speed down if you over-revved. by not being on the gas when you let the clutch out, you allow the clutch to correct the engine speed when you re-engage it (let it out).
It's a barely more work for the clutch to do. Keep in mind that the amount of torque required (and therefore generated) to free-rev the engine to your target RPM is a tiny fraction of what it takes to drive the car at that (or any) RPM, barely anything more than idle. For a steady-throttle rev-match you're barely touching the accelerator pedal, unlike the deep jab you do for a stab-and-release; it's probably less energy dissipation than you'd have at cold high idle (mainly older cars, of course) when you execute a shift to a lower RPM and the computer opens the IAC.