friggin a
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friggin a
so i go to change the front brakes\rotors on my truck and after much fuss (the truck is a 92' with 130000 miles on it and the brakes have never been changed) i finally got everything apart. rotors went on fine, calipers went on fine, but i noticed the sliding pin on the front left caliper was a little seized and it wasn't moving as much as the other ones. but i said whatever. after getting the pads in on the front left i thought i would just slap in the front left ones and i would be good for a test run. i try to put in the front left brake pads and the sliding pin is so seized that i can't even get the thing to move to the right position to get the pads in.
i've tried spraying the pin with wd-40 (without getting any on the brake\rotor assembly) but the thing isn't budging. 17 years of rust > me
someone tell me something i don't know that will magically fix this. i don't want to get new calipers but from my current standpoint thats about my only option.
i've tried spraying the pin with wd-40 (without getting any on the brake\rotor assembly) but the thing isn't budging. 17 years of rust > me
someone tell me something i don't know that will magically fix this. i don't want to get new calipers but from my current standpoint thats about my only option.
- wannabe
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Re: friggin a
did you try pb blaster? i hear it works better than wd 40 sometimes....
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Re: friggin a
It's been years since I've done brakes. What is this "sliding pin"? I don't remember anything matching that description.
PB Blaster or another penetrating oil may work better than WD40. Can you apply heat at all? How about cold? You may be able to expand or contract something, either to make room or to break free the rust bond.
PB Blaster or another penetrating oil may work better than WD40. Can you apply heat at all? How about cold? You may be able to expand or contract something, either to make room or to break free the rust bond.
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
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Re: friggin a
i think i know the sliding pin ur talking about....we had issues w/ it on the drivers side caliper on my 89 spirit....
we finally hammered it out of there....w/ a mallet and something that fit ontop of it and i malleted it out of there....
we finally hammered it out of there....w/ a mallet and something that fit ontop of it and i malleted it out of there....
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Re: friggin a
yeah i think im gonna pick up a can of pb blaster and attempt that before i splurge for new caliperswannabe wrote:did you try pb blaster? i hear it works better than wd 40 sometimes....
theres a sliding pin that adjusts itself when the single piston is compressed against the brake pads. its so rusted and seized that it doesn't budge. under normal operation it should slide left and right to adjust for the single piston to compress against the pads and the rotor and it should adjust itself.theholycow wrote:It's been years since I've done brakes. What is this "sliding pin"? I don't remember anything matching that description.
PB Blaster or another penetrating oil may work better than WD40. Can you apply heat at all? How about cold? You may be able to expand or contract something, either to make room or to break free the rust bond.
i could try blasting it with heat. would heat expand it or contract it? i know with water the hotter it is the less dense it gets, colder the more dense it gets. so would cold make it denser, therefore cause it to shrink?
hmm i didn't try hammering it around to get it to move. there was a nut on there that i tried to mess around with (after i applied the wd-40 of course) and it just kinda slid around. whether it was due to the lube applied or the fact that it was a little stripped im not sure.wannabe wrote:i think i know the sliding pin ur talking about....we had issues w/ it on the drivers side caliper on my 89 spirit....
we finally hammered it out of there....w/ a mallet and something that fit ontop of it and i malleted it out of there....
maybe some lube and a good whack is all it needs
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Re: friggin a
twssLHOswald wrote:maybe some lube and a good whack is all it needs
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Re: friggin a
Yup, cold will make it contract. I said heat first because it's easy to apply a lot of heat with a torch, but hard to apply a lot of cold (more accurately, remove a lot of heat). Freeze spray (aka canned air upside-down) might do the job.
Heat would expand it, which could break its rust bonds. It could also force the hole open (twss). Cold could shrink the pin, and shrink or expand the hole (depending on the shape of the surrounding stuff I guess). Rapid application of heat then cold could break it loose and probably can't hurt too much, if you consider how hot brakes get and how cold a puddle is that gets splashed on the brakes in the winter.
If you haven't tried whacking it yet, you should.
These are all just ideas, I haven't had this problem and can't say they won't break stuff. The problem I usually had when doing disc brakes was pushing the piston back in, I would either destroy a C-clamp or let some brake fluid bleed (which invariably allowed air into the system and doing a complete bleed never seemed to work well for me).
I still can't remember the sliding pin.
Heat would expand it, which could break its rust bonds. It could also force the hole open (twss). Cold could shrink the pin, and shrink or expand the hole (depending on the shape of the surrounding stuff I guess). Rapid application of heat then cold could break it loose and probably can't hurt too much, if you consider how hot brakes get and how cold a puddle is that gets splashed on the brakes in the winter.
If you haven't tried whacking it yet, you should.
These are all just ideas, I haven't had this problem and can't say they won't break stuff. The problem I usually had when doing disc brakes was pushing the piston back in, I would either destroy a C-clamp or let some brake fluid bleed (which invariably allowed air into the system and doing a complete bleed never seemed to work well for me).
I still can't remember the sliding pin.
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
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Re: friggin a
how the hell did you destroy a c clamp pushing the piston in? it wasn't that hard on my truck. i just used a big ass pair of vice grips and forced that f*cker right back in theretheholycow wrote:These are all just ideas, I haven't had this problem and can't say they won't break stuff. The problem I usually had when doing disc brakes was pushing the piston back in, I would either destroy a C-clamp or let some brake fluid bleed (which invariably allowed air into the system and doing a complete bleed never seemed to work well for me).
I still can't remember the sliding pin.
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Re: friggin a
They're not all that easy. Some require a lot more force.LHOswald wrote:how the hell did you destroy a c clamp pushing the piston in? it wasn't that hard on my truck. i just used a big ass pair of vice grips and forced that f*cker right back in there
The worst one, as I found out, actually required you to turn the piston while pushing it. I didn't find out until we destroyed two clamps...
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
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Re: friggin a
theholycow wrote: If you haven't tried whacking it yet, you should.
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Re: friggin a
Yeah the FC is like that, it's such a huge PITAtheholycow wrote:
The worst one, as I found out, actually required you to turn the piston while pushing it.
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Re: friggin a
get rid of it....noob5,000,000 wrote:Yeah the FC is like that, it's such a huge PITAtheholycow wrote:
The worst one, as I found out, actually required you to turn the piston while pushing it.
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Re: friggin a
Heat it, hit it with a hammer, then PB Blaster the living shit out of it.
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Re: friggin a
oh really? that much finesse? lol. im gonna do it tomorrow and see what happens. if it doesn't happen i'll just jump around like a monkey hitting the thing in random places. we'll see what happenscomingbackdown wrote:Heat it, hit it with a hammer, then PB Blaster the living shit out of it.
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Re: friggin a
There is a tool that is made for the job...you could borrow it from a parts store that has a loan program, or probably buy one for not too much money. After we broke a couple C-clamps and learned that you have to turn it, we found that we could alternate clamping and turning, it was possible to do on his car without the special tool.noob5,000,000 wrote:Yeah the FC is like that, it's such a huge PITAtheholycow wrote:The worst one, as I found out, actually required you to turn the piston while pushing it.
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD