1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
I've basically driven nothing but Saturn S-Series' the entire time I've been driving. Nothing quite handles like them in my experience, and they are cheap cheap cheap cars to keep running forever. The one I had been driving had the almighty PRND32 though - nothing wrong with it, just once you've shifted into D your work was done. That's boring. Late 2012 I decided it was time to do something about it. Either hit up a junkyard and swap out my automatic transmission and associated parts for a manual or just get another already equipped with the 5 speed. Having multiple cars is very nice because it takes off the pressure when one develops a problem - so another Saturn was the decision. Around Christmas the ideal candidate popped up on Craigslist. It was a 1995 SC2 almost fully loaded, with a 5 speed and the price was very cheap as the engine had been run low on oil for some time. It made the trip home on December 28th and then the rebuild began a few days later. This is a Saturn 1.9l DOHC engine (LL0).
First night in the garage, snow still on the tires.
Several days later, back outside sans powertrain. Here you can see the broken quarterpanel and bent cowl(?).
Valve cover removed (earlier, while engine was still in the car) to check out the head. Notice the oil on the exhaust manifold - either the head gasket had failed and was dumping oil out the front, or that gallery was cracked. Cams look alright here.
Or not, the cams had unusual and rather severe wear on the lobes.
As did the lifters... The oil filter likely bypassed and allowed metal chips to flow freely through this engine.
Scoring on the cam journals. I would almost reuse these, if this were going to be a quick and dirty rebuild.
Greasy back of the block. Head and timing set removed.
Number 3 cylinder with the largest scar. All cylinders were out of round by .0005"
Cross hatching is ~.020" deep, unlike some engines it will always be present.
The lower block disassembled. It's near impossible to see in this picture, but the thrust (taken at the #3 main journal between the two counter-weights) is almost completely gone - it had > .030" play.
Crankshaft, some scoring on the journals. Only one was severe enough to merit a re-grind.
Number 1 main journal had some decent scoring.
Number 3 rod bearing, cap side. Rod bearings receive oil secondary to (and from) the main bearings, thus damage to rod bearings is almost always more significant than damage to main bearings.
Number 2 (IIRC) rod bearing, cap side.
The worst main bearing cap.
Piston, connecting rod, and wrist pin disassembled.
These engines are notorious for burning oil (frequently large quantities) after ~100k miles. This piston was already cleaned, but you can see where the problem lies - the oil drainback holes are tiny dimples in the oil control ring land. The fix is to drill extra drains or use aftermarket pistons. I suspect by the conditions of these pistons this engine was burning 1qt./500 miles.
And the engine is off to the machine shop...
First night in the garage, snow still on the tires.
Several days later, back outside sans powertrain. Here you can see the broken quarterpanel and bent cowl(?).
Valve cover removed (earlier, while engine was still in the car) to check out the head. Notice the oil on the exhaust manifold - either the head gasket had failed and was dumping oil out the front, or that gallery was cracked. Cams look alright here.
Or not, the cams had unusual and rather severe wear on the lobes.
As did the lifters... The oil filter likely bypassed and allowed metal chips to flow freely through this engine.
Scoring on the cam journals. I would almost reuse these, if this were going to be a quick and dirty rebuild.
Greasy back of the block. Head and timing set removed.
Number 3 cylinder with the largest scar. All cylinders were out of round by .0005"
Cross hatching is ~.020" deep, unlike some engines it will always be present.
The lower block disassembled. It's near impossible to see in this picture, but the thrust (taken at the #3 main journal between the two counter-weights) is almost completely gone - it had > .030" play.
Crankshaft, some scoring on the journals. Only one was severe enough to merit a re-grind.
Number 1 main journal had some decent scoring.
Number 3 rod bearing, cap side. Rod bearings receive oil secondary to (and from) the main bearings, thus damage to rod bearings is almost always more significant than damage to main bearings.
Number 2 (IIRC) rod bearing, cap side.
The worst main bearing cap.
Piston, connecting rod, and wrist pin disassembled.
These engines are notorious for burning oil (frequently large quantities) after ~100k miles. This piston was already cleaned, but you can see where the problem lies - the oil drainback holes are tiny dimples in the oil control ring land. The fix is to drill extra drains or use aftermarket pistons. I suspect by the conditions of these pistons this engine was burning 1qt./500 miles.
And the engine is off to the machine shop...
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Here's the alternator. At 165k miles it wouldn't hurt to rebuild it.
The cam cover. Time to take that nasty flaking, grey paint off.
The cam cover. Freshly painted with blue and clearcoat. This will actually be re-painted later because the clear began to bubble.
These transmissions have somewhat weak differential pins. The differential pin holds the spider gears together, and is itself held in the differential housing by a single roll pin. That roll pin was robotically installed. For the robots to be able to assemble it, the roll pin fits the carrier correctly, but is slightly loose in the differential pin. If it shears and comes out, the entire transmission is destroyed. I drilled out the carrier and pin to 3/16" and installed two 3/16" roll pins instead of the single factory pin. This is the differential pin. For a more detailed and picture filled thread on these differentials, see http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showth ... ost1973974.
Input/Output shafts.
Reassembled transmission.
Greased axle seals, spider gears, differential pin.
The cam cover. Time to take that nasty flaking, grey paint off.
The cam cover. Freshly painted with blue and clearcoat. This will actually be re-painted later because the clear began to bubble.
These transmissions have somewhat weak differential pins. The differential pin holds the spider gears together, and is itself held in the differential housing by a single roll pin. That roll pin was robotically installed. For the robots to be able to assemble it, the roll pin fits the carrier correctly, but is slightly loose in the differential pin. If it shears and comes out, the entire transmission is destroyed. I drilled out the carrier and pin to 3/16" and installed two 3/16" roll pins instead of the single factory pin. This is the differential pin. For a more detailed and picture filled thread on these differentials, see http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showth ... ost1973974.
Input/Output shafts.
Reassembled transmission.
Greased axle seals, spider gears, differential pin.
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
The block is home. Cleaned, hot tanked, bored, and honed.
New Sealed Power .5mm oversize pistons - with large oil drains.
New bores and crosshatch.
Freshly ground crankshaft, welded thrust surface.
Thrust surface.
The lower block assembled.
Oil pickup, oil pan baffle, rear main seal carrier.
New rear main seal.
Updated oil pump cover with a hole for oiling the timing chain. I drilled the hole myself instead of ordering a new cover. You must be careful doing this yourself as you can significantly lower oil pressure if you make it too large.
Given the damage to the head, it was easier and cheaper to order a remanufactured head. J&C Enterprises always provides very good quality heads for ~$80 more than a full head job. A worthwhile choice in this case.
Head installed, lubed, and timed.
Flywheel resurfaced. I also had to cut a 1/4", 45° chamfer on the inner edge for clearance with the updated clutch friction discs.
Cutting that chamfer indicated that the flywheel was out of balance, so it was replaced entirely.
New Sealed Power .5mm oversize pistons - with large oil drains.
New bores and crosshatch.
Freshly ground crankshaft, welded thrust surface.
Thrust surface.
The lower block assembled.
Oil pickup, oil pan baffle, rear main seal carrier.
New rear main seal.
Updated oil pump cover with a hole for oiling the timing chain. I drilled the hole myself instead of ordering a new cover. You must be careful doing this yourself as you can significantly lower oil pressure if you make it too large.
Given the damage to the head, it was easier and cheaper to order a remanufactured head. J&C Enterprises always provides very good quality heads for ~$80 more than a full head job. A worthwhile choice in this case.
Head installed, lubed, and timed.
Flywheel resurfaced. I also had to cut a 1/4", 45° chamfer on the inner edge for clearance with the updated clutch friction discs.
Cutting that chamfer indicated that the flywheel was out of balance, so it was replaced entirely.
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
The interior has been mostly removed so that everything can be thoroughly washed and cleaned. All carpet was shampooed before putting seats back in.
Rear seats cleaned and installed.
Front seats cleaned and installed.
Steering wheel, instruments cluster, etc.
Powertrain on the way back down.
And back in.
The finished car.
Rear seats cleaned and installed.
Front seats cleaned and installed.
Steering wheel, instruments cluster, etc.
Powertrain on the way back down.
And back in.
The finished car.
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
And finally the parts and cost list.
Initial Purchase: $470
Tools:
Initial Purchase: $470
Tools:
- 29mm deepwell socket - $17
- Red/Green plastigage - $5
- Hose for removing/installing rods - $1
- Berryman's Chem-Dip - $30
- Engine stand/Load leveler (Craigslist) - $25
- Piston ring expander - $9
- Total: $87
- Dexron III ATF - $13
- MP2 5th gear - $80
- Roll pins and new case bolts - $10
- Gaskets - $13
- Total: $116
- Sealed Power .5mm Oversize Hyper-eutectic Pistons - $125
- Hastings Cast Iron Rings - $40
- MAHLE Clevite Mains and Rod Bearings - $86
- Crank thrust weld - $75
- Block hot tanking - $25
- Crankshaft Grinding - $85
- Cylinder Boring - $60
- Sealed Power Oil Pump - $17
- OEM pieces (oil pickup seal, pressure relief valve, etc.) - $42
- Victor Reinz Timing Cover Gasket Set - $19.50
- Fel-Pro EGR Gasket - $3
- Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal - $16
- Fel-Pro Head Bolts - $23
- Fel-Pro Exhaust Manifold Gasket - $8.50
- Fel-Pro Head Gasket - $29
- Victor Reinz Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket - $5
- Victor Reinz Throttle Body Gasket - $3
- Intake Manifold Gasket - $8
- Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gasket - $25
- Permatex The Right Stuff - $22
- Permatex Ultra Slick Assembly Lube 2x - $12
- Cloyes Timing Set - $110
- J&C Reman Head - $279
- Luk 04-115 Clutch Set - $116
- Brute Power flywheel - $60
- Total: $1,294
- NGK BKR5ESA-11 Spark Plugs - $9
- CS130 Alternator rebuild kit - $44
- Aircraft stripper (for cam cover) - $9
- Carb cleaner/Brake cleaner - $11
- DB Electrical starter motor - $50
- GMB water pump - $21
- Stant 14279 thermostat - $9
- Gates belt tensioner - $62
- Coolant hoses - $40
- Replacements for rounded fasteners - $10
- Fixed orifice PCV, boot, and grommet - $14
- Duralast idler pulley - $20
- Exhaust flex joint - $40
- Exhaust resonator weld and Cherry Bomb install - $60
- J/Y front passenger quarter panel and turn signal - $42
- J/Y ICM and towers - $44
- VHT high temp, wrinkle plus, black (for cam cover) - $10
- Total: $496
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Neat! Thanks for sharing.
I've noticed that, despite the fact that many car people like to 'look down' on Saturn, the people who do own Saturns tend to buy from the brand again and often own more than one at once. I'll have to try one out some time, seems like they're a hidden gem.
I've noticed that, despite the fact that many car people like to 'look down' on Saturn, the people who do own Saturns tend to buy from the brand again and often own more than one at once. I'll have to try one out some time, seems like they're a hidden gem.
1986 Mazda RX-7 sport - slowly returning to the Earth
1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Enjoyed the photos, thanks for sharing.
Did you do all the work yourself?
Did you do all the work yourself?
09 Mazda 5 2.3 5-speed manual 171k
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11 Subaru Forester auto 113k
92 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 5-speed manual 151k
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
I would agree with you, but note that this is only the S-Series. The Vue, Ion, Outlook, Sky, and Relay were all made somewhat by Saturn but were nothing exceptional. Every other model is imported. The S-Series stands alone in achieving 30+ mpg for all models and is one of the few cars that regularly achieves 400,000+ miles before giving up the ghost. That was the car that they needed to show everybody what they could do. It was awesome, then they became complacent.noob5,000,000 wrote:I've noticed that, despite the fact that many car people like to 'look down' on Saturn, the people who do own Saturns tend to buy from the brand again and often own more than one at once. I'll have to try one out some time, seems like they're a hidden gem.
Everything except machine work (block boring, cranking grinding, that stuff).ClutchDisc wrote:Did you do all the work yourself?
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Sweet build! Enjoying the pictures and write-up. How is Saturn's twin-cam engine?
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Wow, that was great!
Anyone who didn't click the link to his transmission rebuild thread, go there now:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showth ... ost1973974
I'm jealous of so much...skills, facilities, equipment, transmission dipstick...I do all my work in the mud of my "lawn" and on a piece of OSB across the top of an old console TV that I call a workbench with hand tools / portable power tools. Obviously I don't rebuild stuff.
When I did my project, I found information that I should use special bolts for the flywheel->crankshaft and clutch cover assembly->flywheel. It looks like you used regular bolts like I did. Any thoughts?
On your crankshaft, "welded thrust surface"...what does that mean? Welder laid a bead over the scored parts to build up material, then the whole thing was reground?
"Flywheel resurfaced. I also had to cut a 1/4", 45° chamfer on the inner edge for clearance with the updated clutch friction discs." -- How did you cut the chamfer? Lathe?
I'm curious why you put so much money into rebuilding that engine. Wouldn't it have been significantly less expensive to replace it, maybe with the one from your old Saturn or even a purchased used engine?
Anyone who didn't click the link to his transmission rebuild thread, go there now:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showth ... ost1973974
I'm jealous of so much...skills, facilities, equipment, transmission dipstick...I do all my work in the mud of my "lawn" and on a piece of OSB across the top of an old console TV that I call a workbench with hand tools / portable power tools. Obviously I don't rebuild stuff.
When I did my project, I found information that I should use special bolts for the flywheel->crankshaft and clutch cover assembly->flywheel. It looks like you used regular bolts like I did. Any thoughts?
On your crankshaft, "welded thrust surface"...what does that mean? Welder laid a bead over the scored parts to build up material, then the whole thing was reground?
"Flywheel resurfaced. I also had to cut a 1/4", 45° chamfer on the inner edge for clearance with the updated clutch friction discs." -- How did you cut the chamfer? Lathe?
I'm curious why you put so much money into rebuilding that engine. Wouldn't it have been significantly less expensive to replace it, maybe with the one from your old Saturn or even a purchased used engine?
1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
Put your car in your sig!
Learn to launch/FAQs/lugging/misused terms: meta-sig
Put your car in your sig!
Learn to launch/FAQs/lugging/misused terms: meta-sig
watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
That was indeed a great read. Looks scary .theholycow wrote:
Anyone who didn't click the link to his transmission rebuild thread, go there now:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showth ... ost1973974
1986 Mazda RX-7 sport - slowly returning to the Earth
1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
These cars intrigue me. I went to the Saturn visitors center in Tennessee before it closed. Really sad on how empty it was...
How does the frame hold up in your area? I heard that the rockers and the sub frame rusts to nothing.
How does the frame hold up in your area? I heard that the rockers and the sub frame rusts to nothing.
2004 Honda Accord 2.4 5 Speed
1989 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
1989 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Hmm.....if you've basically driven nothing but Saturn cars the entire time you've been driving, then I can see why you'd think nothing handles like them.anmasher wrote:I've basically driven nothing but Saturn S-Series' the entire time I've been driving. Nothing quite handles like them in my experience...
Sorry, I just thought that was a funny way for you to start your thread. There's nothing wrong with being enthusiastic about one particular brand. I'm just the opposite--I like to experience lots of different brands and then make my comparisons between them.
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Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Great thread - nice writeup.
No experience with these Saturns so I'm not sure how they handle. For all I know, they could be similar to gen1 Neon, which is known as a very good-handling FWD platform and is often autocrossed still.
No experience with these Saturns so I'm not sure how they handle. For all I know, they could be similar to gen1 Neon, which is known as a very good-handling FWD platform and is often autocrossed still.
'19 Toyota 4Runner TRD ORP
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'12 Suzuki V-Strom 650
Re: 1995 Saturn SC2 - Rebuilt (lots of pictures)
Haha, yes that's an impressive thread; however, it's not mine. Disassembling the transmission to that extent requires a few specialty tools and much more skill than I posses.theholycow wrote: Anyone who didn't click the link to his transmission rebuild thread, go there now:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showth ... ost1973974
The tiniest bit of loctite isn't a bad idea, but there's nothing wrong with re-using the old bolts.When I did my project, I found information that I should use special bolts for the flywheel->crankshaft and clutch cover assembly->flywheel. It looks like you used regular bolts like I did. Any thoughts?
The thrust bearing takes lateral crank thrust - most significant when you push in the clutch. The crankshaft has a smooth flat circumference that rides on this bearing. The crankshaft and bearing shouldn't be in contact with much force on them unless the clutch is pushed in. Sitting at a stop light in 1st, clutch in, slowly eats the crankshaft and bearing. It is this surface that had a weld built up and then was re-ground. Thrust bearing. Thrust surface.On your crankshaft, "welded thrust surface"...what does that mean? Welder laid a bead over the scored parts to build up material, then the whole thing was reground?
3 axis mill. Picked up several points around the outside, then cut the specified circle however far in it was supposed to be. When that came out off-center, it indicated that the flywheel was out of balance."Flywheel resurfaced. I also had to cut a 1/4", 45° chamfer on the inner edge for clearance with the updated clutch friction discs." -- How did you cut the chamfer? Lathe?
No other reason than that I wanted to. You gotta have something to drain all your time and money, right? It did come out to about the same as a nicer Craigslist Saturn, but any of those would have 100k+ miles.I'm curious why you put so much money into rebuilding that engine. Wouldn't it have been significantly less expensive to replace it, maybe with the one from your old Saturn or even a purchased used engine?