Clean as hell.

Brianna is awesome. Clean as hell.

I drove a standard Geo Prizm once, and it was ballin' as hell except the 2nd and 3rd gear syncro was f'ed in the "a".


10 eProps.

Haha, thanks. I see you have a Toyota in your avatar. Big Toyota fan eh?

Damn after looking at your myspace page, you have a damn good taste in music!

Enlarging the capacity of an engine has been around as long as engines have, and that exact process for the 4AGE is not a new formula.

Again we turn to the 7A-FE.

Using a 7A-FE block again to make a big cube high revving engine is not a cheap or simple option. first up a custom set of pistons may be needed, companies such as Wiseco and Mahle can make custom pistons for you, but will not be cheap. The second part is a set of forged conrods, in place of the spindly, tooth pick 7A-FE rods. recently there has been a lot of need for forged 7A-FE rods for high comp and turbo motors and a few are now starting to provide them for the discerning buyer, although there still isnt a huge market for them.

The 7A-FE block is quite strong, but because its a grandma-spec engine the water galleries and oil galleries only the bare minimum of what is needed. This is again where your engine builder will need to be on the ball as the both the water and oil galleries will need to be opened up to allow greater flow.

Once the 7A-FE block has been assembled with the high comp pistons and forged rods, your head will need to go on. This can also be problematic as the 7A-GE now becomes an interference engine! Timing will need to be spot on to avoid bent valves and damage to the head.

The 7A-GE can also be bored out using an 83mm piston. The standard 7A-FE capacity is 1789cc, but using the 83mm pistons increases it to 1880cc or 1.9ltrs. Mark Yager (of Yager Performance) has been making these for a number of years for clubmans and will fit what ever head you want.

There are a lot of inherent problems in doing the 7AG conversion, but the benefits FAR out weigh the negatives. If Chris O’Shannessey can come outright 2nd for the year in IPRA then it cant be a bad thing!

Yeah, that road salt can reek havoc on rust that's already formed on the door.

But it doesn't matter, and you can't see it.

I'll be willing to bet that you could get $3,000USD out of that car when you get it running correctly and if you keep it looking the way it is.

Excuse me for not going and reading your other thread, but did you get it to run correctly? if so what did it need?

I know that engine isn't very powerful, but it should have some balls.

Check for carbon tracking in the distributor and on the rotor and all the usual ignition components. That car should be really simple and cheap to do a tune up for.