Project Christine slo Hackensteinberg

[Rope-Pusher]

pop-out can be a symptom of inadequate engagement. Sometimes, worn shift fork pads result in synchronizer sleeve that's not getting pushed all the way onto the speed gear clutching teeth.

A weak detent could also allow pop-out of gear when you have no torque lock, like maybe hitting a bump in the road while you are transitioning from throttle-on to throttle off.


...or, it could be mud chiggers.

[theholycow]

like maybe hitting a bump in the road while you are transitioning from throttle-on to throttle off.

That's exactly when it happens.

Probably mud chiggers.

[Rope-Pusher]

Do you know if your detents extend outside of the transmission case, or do you have to crack the case open to get to them?

[theholycow]

Here's what's under my shift lever:


The ball and spring and holes stuff does some detent work, though I think that's mostly handled internally.

So, come to think of it, if the problem is there then the transmission swap won't help; I was going to mount the same tail housing (which is where that shifter stuff is) on my spare transmission before installing.

Looking at further photos I don't see any detents inside the gearbox but I don't have great photos and really don't know what I'm looking for. However, remembering pushing gears around with my fingers I remember some nice clicking into place but no serious detent action at all.
https://picasaweb.google.com/Perforated ... nsteinberg
(transmission guts are 40% in; they end with the kitty photos)

[Rope-Pusher]

http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TRSM-T5-0510-R1_173.pdf

Looks like the detent below the shift lever is it - 1 for all and all for 1.

If the detent was insufficient to hold it in 4th, then maybe it would pop out of other gears as well.

I'm thinking more along the lines of not getting fully engaged into 4th, due to fork pads being worn, fork bent, or some other reason the fork isn't getting pushed forward enough - fork-to-rail connection worn?

[theholycow]

Ok, so those are all things that would get fixed by replacing the gearbox even while keeping the tail housing. Maybe I'll do the swap after all. I hope the weather holds out. I might have to plan a couple days out of work.

Today I decided to tackle that passenger side engine mount. It's tough to reach, rather buried. I decided to make sure I had the right socket by test-fitting on the driver's side mount's bolt. Well I was having a lot of trouble reaching it so I jacked the car, placed a stand, and tried from underneath. While trying to fit it I realized that the bolt was sticking out, and was totally loose. I checked the other bolt and it was completely missing.

So I took wife's car to try to acquire bolts. They are 7/16-14 x 3/4" long, some of the only SAE bolts on this antique GM. Tractor Supply didn't have anything that short. Aubuchon Hardware did. I rushed back because wife needed her car.

She left with her car and I resumed working. Then I realized that the mount was broken. This is the driver's side, the mount is new, I just put it on a few months ago or something. Well, I guess that's to be expected for $2 from Rockauto.

I would have gone to all the effort of replacing the passenger side mount only to find that it was ok, if I hadn't checked socket size on the driver's side and had so much difficulty doing so!

So, here I sit waiting for my cousin to bring me the mount.

[theholycow]

Success with the driver's side mount. No more shifter attacking the passenger's knees, and now I can step on it to use the few cowpower I have under that hood in first gear. Hooray, I can get sideways in rain and snow again! (And this time I used red threadlocker...lots of it. Hope this mount lasts longer!)

Hopefully with the drivetrain not flopping all around it will pop out of 4th less often.

Now it's making a clattering noise (near transmission) when idling in neutral without my foot on the clutch pedal. That's probably worse than the "rrrrr" sound (like a struggling but not slipping power steering pump) it was making before. Guess I better acquire the necessary parts this week to swap the transmission, replace the clutch, etc.

[potownrob]

Success with the driver's side mount. No more shifter attacking the passenger's knees, and now I can step on it to use the few cowpower I have under that hood in first gear...

now we must organize another SS meet!!

[theholycow]

New observation on the popping out of 4th gear: Shifting into 4th grinds after pop-out or during downshift unless I DC or use 3rd's synchronizer.

[Rope-Pusher]

(Deerest Cowboy)
Yes, F N U aren't getting complete gear engagement, it is also likely to clash the synchronizer, in addition to the gear jump-out you have previously noted.

[theholycow]

New observations, thoughts, and a realization...

The noise is not the release bearing after all. It's the input shaft! I think someone suggested it but I can't find that post now. Anyway I tested for it by engine-off coasting at 30mph and shifting to 2nd; I could hear the input shaft spin up, loud and clear. Also I realized that it tracks with input shaft speed, not engine speed.

I wonder if the noise changed when I replaced that engine mount because the system is stiffer and is bending the transmission case a little. Also, I wonder if I'll find those bellhousing bolts backed out.

I know I didn't get the input shaft bearing preload correct when I put it together in 2010. I also didn't get the pilot bushing inside diameter right. That input shaft is definitely flopping around and has been for a while. Sometimes I'll get a bunch of shaking, easily cured by stepping on the clutch and then gently re-engaging it so it can center with centrifugal force, sometimes adding some RPM.

3rd grinds a little too. I wonder if the input shaft being out of whack is the problem with 4th pop-out and 3rd/4th grinding.

Oh, and shortly before I realized it was the ISB not the release bearing, I was wondering...what would happen if I kept driving on a bad release bearing? Would it eventually fail in a more catastrophic way or would it just keep making noise, presumably excess heat, and maybe scraping on the fork and/or clutch cover assembly fingers?

[Rope-Pusher]

I was wondering...what would happen if I kept driving on a bad release bearing? Would it eventually fail in a more catastrophic way or would it just keep making noise, presumably excess heat, and maybe scraping on the fork and/or clutch cover assembly fingers?

Deerest Holy Guinea Pig,
Please continue in this experiment until its conclusions, for duty and for humanity!
Rope et al

[theholycow]

I really would, if it was the release bearing...but it's not.

It's also not lupus.

[watkins]

I really would, if it was the release bearing...but it's not.

It's also not lupus.

Except for the one episode when it was, just to be difficult.

[Rope-Pusher]

So let's say that the input shaft is only loosely piloted by the bushing in the end of the crank.

"The input shaft is only loosely piloted by the bushing in the end of the crank"

And lets say again that this shaft gets into sum kinda wobble-mode.

"This shaft gets into sum kinda wobble-mode"

And as it wobbles, it tries to throw off the synchro sleeve that is coupled with the end of the input that sticks inside the trans case.

"As it wobbles,....."

NO, SIMON DIDN'T SAY TO SAY ANYTHING THIS TIME!

Maybe the wobble is (liver)wurst now than it used to be and that results in the 4th gear jump-out.