how do u start off with a hard launch?
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- Junior Standardshifter
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- Location: Arlington, TX
I haven't tried dropping the clutch yet.
Sounds like you just rev the engine and take your foot off the clutch.
Folks have listed some does and do not for various equipment and mods.
But before I start playing, what can I do that will really mess up or brake something? I mean if I redline the thing and drop the clutch with my "as is" car is something gonna imediately brake?
I'm driving the 05 Mustang GT, it's listed as:
Horsepower (SAE net @ rpm) 300 @ 5750
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm) 320 @ 4500
The redline is at 6000-8000 rpm
What do all these numbers mean? How do I adjust my driving to them?
Sounds like you just rev the engine and take your foot off the clutch.
Folks have listed some does and do not for various equipment and mods.
But before I start playing, what can I do that will really mess up or brake something? I mean if I redline the thing and drop the clutch with my "as is" car is something gonna imediately brake?
I'm driving the 05 Mustang GT, it's listed as:
Horsepower (SAE net @ rpm) 300 @ 5750
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm) 320 @ 4500
The redline is at 6000-8000 rpm
What do all these numbers mean? How do I adjust my driving to them?
05' Mustang GT - torch red
First, you're supposed to break the engine in for 500-1000 miles. That's means babying it and not using cruise control and varying your speeds for that distance.
Second, clutch dumps put extreme stress on your tranny. Clutch slips put severe stress on your clutch. Racing will wear your car out and break parts faster.
As for what those numbers mean, search for info about general engine theory. That's a universal thing for all cars, and they can explain in much better detail than i ever can.
Second, clutch dumps put extreme stress on your tranny. Clutch slips put severe stress on your clutch. Racing will wear your car out and break parts faster.
As for what those numbers mean, search for info about general engine theory. That's a universal thing for all cars, and they can explain in much better detail than i ever can.
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- Moderator
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In all reality, the numbers really don't matter. You have more low-end torque, which is good. You have a lot of horsepower, which is also good, but if you aren't careful, it can get you into trouble. Be conservative with how much throttle you apply. Less is better. Your redline is the fastest your engine can go (in RPM speed) without destroying itself. Don't rev in a gear above the reline. Most modern cars won't let you anyway.jones4shifting wrote:I haven't tried dropping the clutch yet.
Sounds like you just rev the engine and take your foot off the clutch.
Folks have listed some does and do not for various equipment and mods.
But before I start playing, what can I do that will really mess up or brake something? I mean if I redline the thing and drop the clutch with my "as is" car is something gonna imediately brake?
I'm driving the 05 Mustang GT, it's listed as:
Horsepower (SAE net @ rpm) 300 @ 5750
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm) 320 @ 4500
The redline is at 6000-8000 rpm
What do all these numbers mean? How do I adjust my driving to them?
As for dumping the clutch, listen to LS1Leader. Don't do it for a while. We'll get to that later.
2007 Mazda3
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
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- Junior Standardshifter
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Sun May 01, 2005 8:19 pm
- Location: Arlington, TX
Alright LS1Leader and Johnf514,LS1Leader wrote:First, you're supposed to break the engine in for 500-1000 miles.
I've got 1000 miles on the back of this pony. I've got all the basics to normal driving down. So, what's up with this clutch dropping? Please give me a few guidelines and procedures to play with. I've not gonna be acting up all the time. I just need a little fun with them teenagers pull up on me at a light.
05' Mustang GT - torch red
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Lol, we all have to show up the kids in their rice-burners sometimes.
If someone challenges you at a light, you'll want to drop the clutch as you rev the engine, giving you the fastest start possible. Keep in mind that this is hard on your drivetrain, and I do not recommend doing this.
With that said, let's get to it.
Remember, you want to beat this kid, so the harder you rev initially doesn't necessarily mean the faster you'll go. For an 8-cylinder like your Mustang, I suggest revving at about 3000 RPMs. This should allow the clutch to grab as you rev the engine, but not just smoke your tires and give you little acceleration. You can raise and lower your RPMs as you like if 3000 is too much/too little. The whole process goes like this:
Clutch in and hold
Rev to desired RPM and hold
Green light = Slide your foot off the clutch (i.e. "dumping the clutch") quickly and hold your gas steady
(Note: if you floor the gas, the clutch won't be able to grab and you'll just burn it up. If you let off the gas, you won't accelerate as fast)
As you feel the car picking up speed, give it more gas
That's basically it. The hard part is finding the right speed to avoid spinning your tires, burning up your clutch (which you will do a bit of anyway) and starting too slowly (or stalling, yikes!).
Good luck, and remember, don't do this a lot, but have fun when you do!
If someone challenges you at a light, you'll want to drop the clutch as you rev the engine, giving you the fastest start possible. Keep in mind that this is hard on your drivetrain, and I do not recommend doing this.
With that said, let's get to it.
Remember, you want to beat this kid, so the harder you rev initially doesn't necessarily mean the faster you'll go. For an 8-cylinder like your Mustang, I suggest revving at about 3000 RPMs. This should allow the clutch to grab as you rev the engine, but not just smoke your tires and give you little acceleration. You can raise and lower your RPMs as you like if 3000 is too much/too little. The whole process goes like this:
Clutch in and hold
Rev to desired RPM and hold
Green light = Slide your foot off the clutch (i.e. "dumping the clutch") quickly and hold your gas steady
(Note: if you floor the gas, the clutch won't be able to grab and you'll just burn it up. If you let off the gas, you won't accelerate as fast)
As you feel the car picking up speed, give it more gas
That's basically it. The hard part is finding the right speed to avoid spinning your tires, burning up your clutch (which you will do a bit of anyway) and starting too slowly (or stalling, yikes!).
Good luck, and remember, don't do this a lot, but have fun when you do!
2007 Mazda3
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
You can either drop the clutch, like Johnf514 outlined, or slip the clutch. Dropping the clutch is hard on everything but your clutch; Slipping your clutch is especially hard on your clutch.
Slipping the clutch basically involves letting go of the clutch at a slower rate than dumping it. When you dump it, you literally just let it go. When you slip it, you're letting off faster than normal but still not instantly.
Just like Johnf514 said, it's all about throttle modulation. Hit it too hard, you'll smoke your tires without enough traction (which is fun, but won't win you any races). Get on it too slow, and you'll bog down.
Be careful, and make sure you're not going sideways when you pull this off. Even more important, if you feel the back end start going out, DO NOT LET OFF THE THROTTLE COMPLETELY. Countersteer and let off the throttle SLOWLY until the tires regain grip. If you let off, mainly at higher speeds, you'll start wondering why you're facing the wrong way and still moving backwards.
Don't be stupid. Start out by launching more quickly than usual (jackrabbit start), rather than using these methods. Make sure you're in control of the car before you pull any stunts like this.
Slipping the clutch basically involves letting go of the clutch at a slower rate than dumping it. When you dump it, you literally just let it go. When you slip it, you're letting off faster than normal but still not instantly.
Just like Johnf514 said, it's all about throttle modulation. Hit it too hard, you'll smoke your tires without enough traction (which is fun, but won't win you any races). Get on it too slow, and you'll bog down.
Be careful, and make sure you're not going sideways when you pull this off. Even more important, if you feel the back end start going out, DO NOT LET OFF THE THROTTLE COMPLETELY. Countersteer and let off the throttle SLOWLY until the tires regain grip. If you let off, mainly at higher speeds, you'll start wondering why you're facing the wrong way and still moving backwards.
Don't be stupid. Start out by launching more quickly than usual (jackrabbit start), rather than using these methods. Make sure you're in control of the car before you pull any stunts like this.
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- Junior Standardshifter
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- Junior Standardshifter
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- Junior Standardshifter
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Try this, as you floor the go pedal, let the clutch most of the way out really quick. If you do this right, your rev won't go up more than 1k. This is not the optimal launch method because the engine makes more power at 3k than at 1k. But you can still move off at a very decent pace w/o doing a lot of damage on the equipments.
I love how Evos and STIs have the capability to dump the clutch near redline and just launch, yet they cringe when they actually have to use it.. The ones I see save their clutch drops for the really heavy hitters.NubiMTDriver wrote:Think you can take this rice burner? AWD and all?Johnf514 wrote:Lol, we all have to show up the kids in their rice-burners sometimes.
Anyways, yah my friends completely destroyed 3 transmissions already on his Evo so I never drop the clutch
Oh, and just curious, what kind of mods got you to 370 HP, and is that fly wheel estimated or dyno'd?
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Horsepower aside, it comes down to whether or not the driver knows how to properly use that power on a launch.NubiMTDriver wrote:Think you can take this rice burner? AWD and all?Johnf514 wrote:Lol, we all have to show up the kids in their rice-burners sometimes.
If you don't launch right, I'll have you. However, if you get me at the green, I'm done for.
And remember, you've got a bit more "high-end" rice than what I was talking about.
Ouch. Maybe he should learn to drive his car properly. One transmission in a few years, I can understand. 3? He needs to go over basic driving skills again.Anyways, yah my friends completely destroyed 3 transmissions already on his Evo so I never drop the clutch
I mean no disrespect, I just hate to see someone burning through so many trannies (and cash) just to drive.
2007 Mazda3
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
To be honest, he can walk you from a roll. He won't have much problem taking you from a dig, where AWD has the advantage.Johnf514 wrote:Horsepower aside, it comes down to whether or not the driver knows how to properly use that power on a launch.NubiMTDriver wrote:Think you can take this rice burner? AWD and all?Johnf514 wrote:Lol, we all have to show up the kids in their rice-burners sometimes.
If you don't launch right, I'll have you. However, if you get me at the green, I'm done for.
And remember, you've got a bit more "high-end" rice than what I was talking about.
Also, it's a lot harder to screw up an AWD launch than a RWD one.
Burning through trannies isn't an issue of him knowing how to drive. He's dumping the clutch at redline, and that's what's breaking the tranny. It's kinda hard to break a tranny with below average driving skills. Clutch, yes. Tranny? You really have to know how to f*ck it up before you can grenade a tranny, unless your car had a crappy tranny stock.Ouch. Maybe he should learn to drive his car properly. One transmission in a few years, I can understand. 3? He needs to go over basic driving skills again.Anyways, yah my friends completely destroyed 3 transmissions already on his Evo so I never drop the clutch
I mean no disrespect, I just hate to see someone burning through so many trannies (and cash) just to drive.
And I don't blame the guy. That's how you hang with the big boys, by wringing every last ounce of performance out of your car. And doing that breaks parts faster. That's what the performance game is all about. Just like Jay Leno and his Carrera GT, as posted in an article on this forum. If he wants to show somebody up in his GT, it's gonna cost him $3000... to replace the carbon clutch.
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So the only way to hang with the big boys is to wring every last ounce of performance (and, apparently, money) out of your car?
They may smoke their tires and take the 1/4 mile, but when they're broken down on the side of the road (trying to prove . . . what, their manhood?), I'll just laugh and drive off in my functional, not-broken-down car.
I understand that it's all perspective, however, 3 transmissions on a 2-3 year old car? I'll save my money up for that expensive car.
They may smoke their tires and take the 1/4 mile, but when they're broken down on the side of the road (trying to prove . . . what, their manhood?), I'll just laugh and drive off in my functional, not-broken-down car.
I understand that it's all perspective, however, 3 transmissions on a 2-3 year old car? I'll save my money up for that expensive car.
2007 Mazda3
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar
Mods: 15% tint, Eibach ProKit
2006 Ninja 636
Mods: NOS & sidecar