Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 4:42 pm Posts: 452 Location: Vantaa Finland
As requested by THC I will clarify the rules of the race. we have had few discussions related to this in couple of other threads, but to keep things simple I open a new topic for it.
As the video allready revealed most basic rules, in here I will tell evrything what was not in that video, and to keep things simple I tell evrything that was on the video as well.
WEHICLES ALLOWED Anything 2wd
Car Classes Rear engine RWD Front engine FWD "With Driveshaft"
drivetrain conversions -AWD to FWD or RWD -FWD to RWD -RWD to FWD 90-95% cars used are RWD
Engine -2.0l or the largest original engine if bigger than 2.0l -no turbos. -Engine swaps allowed, you can place BMW engine to Volvo if you want to, or anything else you can also put VW beetle engine to honda if you want. This will of course change that honda to run on engine on the rear and RWD. so you need to build a firewall between the driver and the engine. and there will be broblems cause you can't change the position of the rear axle. -Fuel injection allowed within restrictions. you must use the cars original fuel injection. that means if you swapped that BMW engine to Volvo, and want it to be fuel injected, you must use the Volvos fuel injection system. most cars use carburetors. -Air intake must be placed so, that there is impossible to hapen any sort of ram air effect. -No other restriction, you can tune it as much as you wish, within these restrictions.
Chassis -Interrior must be removed (this is also weight reduction) -windows exept windshield and rearwindow must be original glass windows, all other window glasses are removed. front side windows are replaced with iron mesh wich is dense enough to pervent anything to fly in to the cabin, but loose enough so the driver can see out. Rear windows are closed with metal sheet, either welded, screwd, or riveted to place. (car number will be painted here) -Driver racing seat and 4 point seatbelts must be added. -Firewall may be moved maximum of 30cm. Unless car engine has been moved from front to rear, or rear to front. in these cases the firewall need to be built from 2mm thick steel plate (roughly 19 gauge steel) the firewall may not block the driver's sight an any way (Personally I have seen only one rear engine conversion and it was SLOW cause of bad handling) -Wheel arches may be opened to make more room far the wheel, but if opened they must be reinforced (the wheel well and fender must be welded back together.) -Rollgace must be installed -Also Brake lights should be added inside the cabin, or on top of the trunklid, orginal lights must be removed and holes welded shut.
Wheels and tires -M+S tires are not allowed, other than that, anything goes as long it stays inside the wheel well.
RACING
Driver Must have valid racing license
Driver classes Male Female Young (15-19 years old) young and female compete at the same time and share score, unless both classes have high particiapation.
Tracks -Snow (if winter) -Tarmac (rare) -Gravel -Tarmac/Gravel (most common) shortish, usually 0.7-1.3 miles
Racing No deliberate ramming allowed, but rubbing is racing. you may lean on other cars, but you may not push them off the track deliberately Track judges will decide was it deliberate or not.
Special rules
-Anyone who has valid racing license may try to purchase any car wich weren't in bad accident. (rolled over and was tow'd off the track or dropped any body/mechanical parts to the track) This hapens so that you go to, lets call it "auctioneers office" show your license, and tell the car number you want to buy (note you may only bid on one car. after everyone has informed their wished bidding the aucktioneer picks a "lucky winner" who get's the car. This hapens basicly blindfolded "pick a pice of paper from bowl" manner. The Buyer must have enough money to buy this car on location, and that needs to be proven to the auctioneer. -You can also try to save your own car by bidding your own car, you can also ask your friends/team-mates to bid on your car, and if you or your team-mate win it. you can keep the car. of course if you'r car is bad there is no sense doing so. -Driver seat, and seatbelts are not part of the car, they are the drivers own items, and the driver may keep the seat and seatbelts.
The racing is called in Finnish "Jokamies luokka" (direct translation: Everyman class) and nicknamed as "Jokkis" there is many videos on youtube if you are intrested of following more of this class. just search "Jokkis" or "JM track/City name" I might occasionally put some videos in this thread to keep it somewhat alive.
Note: 1 car lasts aproximately 1-20 races. if you see a car that has over 25 inspection pass marks on it's inspection pass you can say that the car has survived quite much
Now few videos
Cars with driveshafts only
1st race, a knock on the car knocks main power off 2nd race spark plug rips it's worm, and flews off #rd race with only 3 sparkplugs in, and 1 missing, engine blows.
_________________ 13litre engine, 18 speed manual, total weight 36tons.11 years on the road,700k.miles driven
Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:36 pm Posts: 13449 Location: Glocester, RI
mad_finn wrote:
-Also Brake lights should be added inside the cabin, or on top of the trunklid, orginal lights must be removed and holes welded shut.
I like the brake lights...seems like it would be good for everyone and probably affect strategy a little too.
Quote:
-Driver seat, and seatbelts are not part of the car, they are the drivers own items, and the driver may keep the seat and seatbelts.
I like this too. These items are a matter of personal fit, plus it allows people who are willing to spend money to buy the safest seat and seatbelts they can.
The videos make it look like a whole lot of fun!
_________________ 1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
Put your car in your sig!
Learn to launch/FAQs/lugging/misused terms: meta-sig
Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 4:42 pm Posts: 452 Location: Vantaa Finland
theholycow wrote:
I like the brake lights...seems like it would be good for everyone and probably affect strategy a little too.
And honestly, when the gravel parts are dry, specially on sunny weather, you can not see the car in front of you.
Most enjoyable race starts on gravel track I have ever had has been like, -> Not the best set off, some cars get in front. -> I see dust -> more dust -> even more dust -> I guess I should turn now, even though I can see only dust. -> turn, -> hey there is only 1-3 cars in front of me but what hapened to the other 4-6 cars?
_________________ 13litre engine, 18 speed manual, total weight 36tons.11 years on the road,700k.miles driven
Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 4:42 pm Posts: 452 Location: Vantaa Finland
worst start ever was similiar, but the with the change...
-> even more dust -> damn, that looks like something blue -> IM FLYING! -> ok now I see Im facing the guardrail, my steering is out, I can find at least 2 gears, -> main power off, -> out of the car and off the track
In the end, when I saw a video of that, I could see my car literally jumping 4-5 feet off the ground, with no front wheels on either side... I didn't see any other cars after first 20 feet exept the lead car, and when I saw my car it was on top of the dustclowd, I allways had had bad luck if there was Ford on the track, and this time my starting point was between 2 fords. Damned things.
_________________ 13litre engine, 18 speed manual, total weight 36tons.11 years on the road,700k.miles driven
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