StandardShift.com

Just a quick hijack Q. Have you guys heard of a pressure plate getting glazed? http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z52/Roger159/2013-06-28220056_zpsef14c797.jpg How would you "unglaze" a flywheel, pressure plate, and the clutch? My clutch had super soft engagement after spending 6hrs at a r...

I usually release the clutch till the clutch starts engaging then add the throttle, I can get it to engage pretty fast and I don't even go over 1000RPM until the clutch is fully engaged. 1500-2000RPM is waaaay too much throttle unless you're going up a 45degree incline in a 1L charade with 4 passeng...

Pretty much never. My car drinks too much fuel, lots of police around and to get to a decent twisty road you have to spend 40mins in traffic.

The worst is the disappearing throttle cable! On some of the new cars I've driven with dbw it feels like the throttle pedal is attached to a midget that sends a morse code message to the engine. For example with my mum's 2012 auto Mazda 3 that I sometimes have to drive I will plant the throttle and ...

First Gear: 3.285
Second Gear: 1.894
Third Gear: 1.275
Fourth Gear: 1.00
Fifth Gear: 0.783

Final drive: 4.083

Fuel cut at 7200
255/40r17 on rears.

My duracon shift knob is like 70grams lol, I've tried a 380gram shift knob and it does make a huge difference, you don't feel any syncro resistance but didn't really like the ball shape and the metal knob was slippery and burning hot in summer.

If you're at crawling speeds that are too slow for 2nd (or uphill) then shift into 1st, give the throttle a little blip, then engage the clutch with the throttle as if you are doing a soft launch. If you don't give it a small blip it's generally a bit jerky unless you're very generous with the throt...

It's fine, if you shift at 7k, smash it into the next gear without letting the revs drop there will be more wear on the drive train and diff but you probably won't notice any wear till the car goes through a couple of owners. Just make sure you change the diff fluid regularly if you thrash it a lot....

b/c it's more stuff to do and more stuff to screw up. and especially when it's slippery it will upset the balance of the car and the tire's traction. in an emergency braking situation, just brake. you have much more control of slowing the car with the brakes than with the clutch and that is what th...

Series 1 auto TT Supra RZ-S 10-13k Series 1 Manual TT Supra RZ/RZ-S 13-18k Supra NA SZ auto 8k if S1, 11k if S2 Supra SZ-R manual 10-12k if S1, 12-16k if S2. JZX100 Chaser auto: 10-14k JZX100 Chaser Manual: 14-18k 180SX Auto 4-6k 180SX Manual 5-10k Not sure where you're getting your numbers, but si...

Not at all, for the cars I'm interested in, manual's will sell for 2-5k more than their auto equivalent. Which cars would those be? Series 1 auto TT Supra RZ-S 10-13k Series 1 Manual TT Supra RZ/RZ-S 13-18k Supra NA SZ auto 8k if S1, 11k if S2 Supra SZ-R manual 10-12k if S1, 12-16k if S2. JZX100 Ch...

Not at all, for the cars I'm interested in, manual's will sell for 2-5k more than their auto equivalent.

If I'm at the very front I'll leave it in neutral till I can see the opposing traffic slowing down for a stop light, then I will throw it in 1st.

If I'm behind someone at the lights, I always leave it in neutral until it goes green.

My speedo: http://www.jdm-online.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/f/i/file_54_10.jpg But the gearing allows for this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_CxY9feHdA I can just imagine someone with the stock cluster going 250kph with the speedo reading 40kph lol.

My car's speedo only goes to 180kph but some of people have clocked 320kph+ with it lol.